Japan Keeps on Giving – On the Road with Szaza and Elliot
11 days, two bicycles, and everything in between Kyoto and Tokyo.
WORDS: SZAZA & ELLIOT
SZAZA: "The first time we went to Japan, Elliot had his bike with him and was cycling around Kyoto during blossom season. I remember thinking it looked incredible. When we left, we were pretty sure that next time we'd both bring our bikes."
And that's pretty much where the idea started.
ELLIOT: "We really wanted to do an adventure together, somewhere we felt hadn't been explored that much by bike. We'd watched so much content about Japan, but felt like there was a story between Kyoto and Tokyo that hadn't really been told."
We'd travelled between the two cities before, but by bullet train. This time we wanted to see what was actually in between.
And we liked the idea of starting in Kyoto, somewhere calm and familiar, before finishing in the absolute chaos that is Tokyo.
Finding our kind of Japan
We weren't trying to make this the hardest cycling trip imaginable. Quite the opposite, actually.
ELLIOT: "I'm a firm believer that life is an experience. We enjoy nice hotels, good food and a bit of comfort. But I also think you appreciate those things so much more when you experience both sides."
So that's exactly what we planned. Traditional ryokans where we'd sleep on futons laid out on tatami mats, beautiful boutique hotels, onsens, and plenty of good food along the way.
SZAZA: "I love looking into places before we arrive. Finding little coffee shops, restaurants, hotels. I think I'm pretty good at finding those hidden gems as well."
Kofu was probably the perfect example. We'd expected very little from the town, but ended up having one of our favourite evenings of the entire trip. Incredible vintage shopping, two tiny wine bars, amazing food and a beautiful hotel.
Then there were places like Obama and Kiso, where we experienced a much quieter, more traditional side of Japan.
SZAZA: "There were places where it felt like only Japanese people went. It was really special, and everyone was so kind."
Everything doesn't always go to plan
Obviously, it wasn't all beautiful hotels and incredible roads.
On day one, Szaza managed to put an enormous hole in her rear tyre. Which was slightly concerning, considering we'd brought no spare tyre.
Then came day two.
ELLIOT: "It was supposed to be an easy 100 kilometres. We left way too late because we'd drunk too many coffees, and it just turned into an all-day ordeal."
We ended up following a tiny road into the mountains, convinced it would eventually reconnect with our route. It didn't.
The road became almost impossible to ride, daylight was disappearing, and we had to turn around. We'd also made the brilliant decision not to bring lights.
SZAZA: "I also had a crazy saddle sore. When you can barely sit on your saddle, and you know you've got to do it all again tomorrow, you just want to get home and get your bib shorts off."
Instead, we rode another 30 kilometres along the coast in complete darkness, slightly concerned about bears, before arriving to find every restaurant closed.
Dinner was FamilyMart. Again.
But strangely, that same day gave us what we both agreed was the dreamiest road of the entire trip.
It never really felt like training
Despite spending over 20 hours a week on our bikes, neither of us really felt like we were training.
SZAZA: "It was actually really motivating having to go from A to B every day. You weren't thinking about how long you were riding. You were just exploring and experiencing things all day."
And I think that's what made it so enjoyable.
There was no race, no power targets, no real pressure. Just getting up every morning and riding somewhere.
ELLIOT: "When you sit in a car, you're just passing things. When you're on a bicycle, you're feeling things. The air, the smells, the sounds. There's nothing between you and the trees and the road."
And somehow, despite spending eleven days cycling, travelling and working together, we didn't strangle each other.
ELLIOT: "I think I learned that Szaza was a bit more resilient than I thought. There were definitely fewer meltdowns than I expected."
Everything in between
Arriving in Tokyo was actually a little underwhelming.
ELLIOT: "Tokyo itself isn't really a great city to ride in. But I think arriving there allowed us to reflect on just how magical all the other days had been."
After eleven days of forests, mountains, tiny villages and beautiful roads, we didn't even particularly want to get on our bikes in Tokyo.
And that was completely fine.
SZAZA: "I think having that perspective made us appreciate everything we'd just experienced so much more."
Looking back, the trip lived up to every expectation, and more. Even with the rain, the punctures, the wrong turns and the occasional questionable dinner.
Would we recommend it?
ELLIOT: "Just go for it. Plan the trip, don't overthink it. Be prepared, and Japan will look after you."
SZAZA: "And pick the right time of year. You can definitely make the experience more enjoyable for yourself."
Because in the end, the best part of cycling from Kyoto to Tokyo wasn't really Kyoto or Tokyo.
It was everything in between.
